Last Updated on July 9, 2024
Have you ever heard of toxic fashion? This term is used to describe synthetic clothes that are heavily treated with chemicals and shed microplastics.
About 60% of the materials that make up clothing today are made from synthetic fibers like nylon, acrylic, and polyester. These are all forms of plastic and with every wash in the laundry, can shed microplastics. Acrylic being a major offender.
Beyond just microplastics, toxic fashion also refers to the chemicals used to process and produce the clothing items hitting store shelves. There are approximately 8000 synthetic chemicals that are used in the apparel industry manufacturing process.
These include PFAS, phthalates, chlorine bleach, flame retardants, lead and chromium, among thousands more. But how exactly do these harsh chemicals impact our health?
To help better understand the connection between toxic fashion, human health, and environmental health, I’ve interviewed Alden Wicker, author of To Dye For and founder of Eco Cult. Here’s what she had to say.
what is toxic fashion?
Toxic fashion is fast fashion made with harsh chemicals that pollute the environment and have potentially damaging effects on human health.
Wicker says, “clothing and accessories can be laden with dozens of chemicals that are known carcinogens, reproductive toxins, mutagens (which means they can damage your DNA), and just plain allergens.”
“Many of the toxins that so scare people in other products –– like PFAS in non-stick pans, phthalates in beauty products, lead in paint, BPA in bottles – have all been found in recent years in clothing and accessories too.”
Here are just some examples of harsh chemicals frequently used to make clothing:
- PFAS: Aka, forever chemicals, which don’t break down in the environment, or our bodies. These are found in raincoats, shoes, cosmetics, mattress pads, printed natural and synthetic fabrics, and finished textiles labeled as water or stain-repellents. They’re popular due to their ability to resist water, oil, heat and stains.
- Flame retardants: Added to clothes to stop them from burning, and are required for children’s clothing. But this has been linked to bioaccumulation and various health risks such as infertility, endocrine disruption and even cancer.
- VOCs: Formaldehyde is just one example of a VOC used in clothing production. These chemicals allow for an easy-care finish, such as wrinkle-free products. But VOCs off-gas, which can cause skin and eye irritation, reproductive and developmental damage, and liver/respiratory problems.
- Azo dyes: Responsible for the vivid coloring found in most clothing. Found in 60-80% of all colorants. But these dyes can quickly come off fabric and once they contact skin, they can cause skin allergies and dermatitis. These dyes, when discharged into water, reduce light penetration and impair the performance of growing aquatic plants.
- Phthalates: Used in anti-odor clothing, like activewear. Phthalates are a plasticizer, which has been attributed to endocrine disruption. They’re also associated with cancer.
what are some examples of how toxic fashion impacts us and the environment?
In Greenpeace International’s 2012 report, big brands like Armani, Calvin Klein, H&M, Victoria’s Secret and Zara environmental impacts were all investigated. The report found that an alarming number of the clothing tested had an increased number of harmful chemicals, such as phthalates.
Of the 141 articles of clothing tested, 89 of those contained NPEs, a detergent-like substance that transforms into nonylphenols when it enters the environment. Nonylphenols adhere strongly to soil and sediment and it can take weeks, sometimes months, for them to break down. They’re harmful to fish and other aquatic animals and plants because they disrupt the normal endocrine function of fish.
More recently, PFAs have been a buzz word in the news and found in a number of products, from cookware to personal care items. But they also play a role in fashion too.
Wicker says, “PFAS, which is used to make clothing stain- and water-resistant, has been linked to several types of cancer, immune suppression, birth defects, and obesity.”
“It can come off clothing when you wash it and go into the waterways, where it never breaks down. Hence, the nickname ‘forever chemicals.’ It can also accumulate in your body. And it can come off your clothing into your home in the house dust, or onto your skin.”
“It’s been found in period panties from Thinx, in children’s school uniforms, and is in a lot of outdoor gear and snow sports gear. It’s also in the water of half of Americans, and some of that is from old textile processing plants.”
Quick sidenote: There are other alternatives for period underwear that don’t add PFAS to their product, like Kayaness.
Other harsh substances, like lead, phthalates and BPA have also been found in our clothing.
Wicker said, “two years ago, high levels of lead and phthalates were found in children’s clothing from Shein and Temu. Lead is a neurotoxin and there is no safe level for children. Phthalates are hormone-disrupting chemicals that can lead to developmental problems in children, as well as reproductive problems in adult women.”
“BPA has been found in polyester-spandex athletic clothing from dozens of large brands. It’s also a hormone-disrupting chemical with similar health effects to phthalates.”
how can the average person avoid toxic fashion on an individual level?
You can avoid most toxic fashion when you choose to avoid synthetic fabrics, and buy from trusted brands. Here’s a list of the best ethical and sustainable clothing brands on the market.
Many fast fashion brands lack transparency on where they’re sourcing their materials from. Transparency is a crucial first step for measuring and reducing fashion’s footprint.
If we don’t know how many harsh chemicals are being used in our clothing, how can we better regulate it?
Wicker says “Because clothing doesn’t come with an ingredient list, like most other products, it can be hard to avoid these chemicals altogether. But combined, there are strategies that can reduce your exposure.”
“First, avoid ultra-fast fashion brands like Shein, like gibberish brands you’ve never heard of that advertise on social media and sell on Amazon.”
Shein alone is producing 35,000 cheaply made items per day. Per a report by Swiss advocacy group, Public Eye, some Shein employees work 75 hours a week and three shifts a day. Public Eye also reported that workers often only get one day off a month.
Wicker continues, “second, go for natural materials like cotton, linen, silk, wool, alpaca, viscose/rayon, bamboo viscose, Tencel, lyocell, and modal. Avoid synthetic materials wherever you can.”
“Third, look for labels like Oeko-Tex, bluesign, and GOTS organic. Fourth, avoid clothing marketed with fancy performance technology, such as wrinkle-free, easy care, stain-resistant, or anti-odor. These are usually achieved with chemical finishes.”
what is the least toxic clothing material?
Wicker says, “natural materials tend to be better, but there’s no guarantee.” You should never trust items labeled as “natural” because this is not a regulated term. Also, some natural materials can still irritate your skin (ex: some people have a wool allergy and can’t wear it without getting itchy).
“People who have high chemical sensitivity tend to do well with Tencel and bamboo viscose fabrics.” Alden continued, “If it’s certified non-toxic by Oeko-Tex on top of being natural, that’s even better.”
Looking for certifications, like certified Oeko-Tex and GOTS organic certification, is the best choice. Third-party certification is important because it means an independent organization has reviewed the product and determined it complies with specific standards for safety, quality or performance.
how to find clothes without chemicals?
I recommend checking out brands like Wear Pact, TenTree, and Toad and Co. These brands utilize organic materials and are transparent about the sourcing of their materials.
The best overall choice is to choose organic, natural and non-synthetic fibers from trusted brands. Natural fibers include, but are not limited to, organic cotton, wool, rayon, silk and linen.
I also have a whole page on my blog dedicated to sustainable fashion with over 50 blog posts on various topics. Wicker also has shopping guides on EcoCult for non-toxic clothing and homewares.
what can we do to prevent toxic fashion on a collective scale?
To fight toxic fashion on a collective scale, Wick believes we could by advocating for ingredient labels for clothing.
“That would really open everyone’s eyes to what we’re dealing with and give people with chronic illness and allergies the opportunity to protect themselves. We need better federal regulation that bans the presence of known hazardous chemicals on clothing – right now the federal government only bans three chemicals and only in children’s products.”
“The Consumer Product Safety Commission needs more funding and needs more teeth to test and recall toxic clothing. You can also ask your state representatives what they are doing to protect you and your family from hazardous chemicals in clothing and consumer products!”
To learn more about toxic fashion, and how to avoid it, be sure to grab a copy of Alden Wicker’s book To Dye For.
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